Christmas in the snow in the Brdy Mountains

As I write about this trip, snow is fluttering outside – there’s even a covering of snow in Příbram today – and in the Brdy Mountains, from around 700 metres up, you need to be careful even on older cross-country skis. Last year, at the end of November, we were digging for porcini mushrooms in the snow above Drahlín. But a thaw usually sets in at Christmas, and I’m afraid this year will be no different. This trip is for those who want to enjoy Christmas in a snow-covered landscape whilst staying close to home.

Until the KČT marks out the route to Tok, I cannot invite you there, although hundreds of walkers set off in that direction even without signposts. I’ll therefore be taking you partly along unmarked paths into the Protected Landscape Area, but only to places where, reportedly, there is no longer any unexploded ordnance and access is unrestricted. To Borské sedlo, the beautiful meadow enclave of Bor, Brdce Hill with its lovely views, and Skelná Huť.

TB = Trauma Point (and its number)

If the weather at Christmas is similar to that of the past few years, there is a much greater chance of encountering snow at this time of year only at altitudes above 750 m – which is why I have chosen this route. The steepest climb awaits us right at the start, from the car park in Orlová (650 m; point no. 1) to the junction on the blue trail (Nad Slaninou – 743 m; point no. 2). However, we will continue along the Třemošná Trail via Ohrádka and past Malá Ohrádka to the Obecnice Saddle (point no. 3; 719 m; the first-aid point no. 17 located here is called Rovina).

We’ll cross the road from Obecnice and continue along Buršovská cesta, climbing gently until we reach the junction with the Káňská forest track (point no. 4; 768 m). We may well come across some snow here. We turn onto the Káňská path and, via the Na Káni hill (793 m), soon reach a junction (point no. 5) with the Čihadelská forest path. Follow this down to Obecnická Road (Na Třetí, point no. 6). We will have covered 6 km by this point, and anyone who has had enough can follow Obecnická Road down to point no. 16 (Nad Pilskou junction) and carry on to Bohutín, Kozičín or back to Orlová.

We, however, will turn right uphill and, passing the Nad Perkanskou spring, will soon reach the junction with the Bahenská forest track (point no. 7). (Here, those looking for a shortcut have another opportunity – they can take Bahenská Trail to reach the junction on Perkanská Trail (point no. 14) and continue from there along the rest of the proposed route.) Our route, however, continues to climb further up to the Borské Saddle (790 m; point no. 8) on the main ridge of the Brdy. Here, too, we can take a shortcut – we turn onto Jeřábecká Path (to the left) and follow it past Brdce Hill (839 m) to point no. 11 (Jeřábecká/Brdecká junction) and from there follow the rest of the suggested route.

Anyone who doesn’t want to miss the charming enclave of Bor, where the magnificent archbishop’s hunting lodge once stood and from where there are lovely views of the Třítrubecké Valley, should continue for a further 800 m downhill to this spot (Traumabod No. 20; 750 m; our point No. 9). We’ve covered 9 km and will now begin to make our way gradually back towards Příbram. We turn left onto Borská Forest Track and, following the north-western slope of Brdce, reach a junction with Jeřábecká Track (point no. 10) known as U Vojáka (813 m). We are now more than halfway along the route and, following Jeřábecká cesta, we turn left after a further 830 m at the junction with Brdecká lesní cesta (point no. 11). Anyone who doesn’t want to miss out on the lovely views from Brdce Hill (839 m) – which is also the highest point we can reach on our route – should make the climb of around 270 m along a fairly easy path through sparse woodland to the summit. You must return via the same route. (Brdce was also one of the sites considered for the construction of an American radar station).

The route then continues downhill along the Brdecká forest track to a junction, where the Havelská forest track joins from the right (point no. 12). However, we turn left again and soon, following an easy path, we reach another beautiful spot: the meadow enclave of Skelná Huť (715 m, point no. 13, trauma point no. 16). As well as interesting views of the surrounding countryside, you’ll also find a spring here and a massive Douglas fir by a barn – the remains of a former gamekeeper’s lodge. There really was a glassworks here in the 19th century; today, foresters run a winter enclosure for red deer here. There is a junction here with the Perkanská forest track – you can follow this down to Láz.

From the junction with the Havelská trail, we are guided by the blue tourist sign – and following this, we set off along the Perkanská trail away from Sklená Huť. After a very gentle climb, we reach the junction with the Bahenská trail (point no. 14). From here, we’ll first walk on flat ground and then descend to the Pilský stream above the reservoir; from there, we’ll climb up to the junction at U Pilské studánky (point no. 15) with Obecnická Road. The spring is just 60 metres along the path on the left. It is very pretty, monitored by the Czech Hydrometeorological Institute (ČHMÚ), and the water from it is highly recommended.

This time, following the blue trail markers, we turn right and continue down Obecnická cesta, descending gently past the Pilská reservoir to the Nad Pilskou junction (point no. 16). We’ll continue to follow the blue trail markers, turn right again and, passing by the Pilská reservoir dam (CAUTION! Class I water source protection zone), we’ll reach the Pila junction (point no. 17). We’re now on Slaninská Road. Our route branches off from it, following the green trail and Prokopská cesta to Bohutín, but anyone who wishes can continue along Slaninská cesta for a further 1.5 km to the U Slaniny gamekeeper’s lodge with its deer enclosure and from there descend to Kozičín, or take the easy path (1.3 km) back to Orlovo.

Our route continues along Prokopská cesta (following the green trail) past a small memorial marking the site of one of the first silver smelting works, to the U Prokopa gamekeeper’s lodge (point no. 18) with its deer enclosure, and occasionally wild boar. Here we leave the Brdy Protected Landscape Area and descend through the forest to the Bohutín lido (point no. 19) and then a further 700 m to the Plzeňka restaurant (point no. 20). Here, in pleasant surroundings, we can enjoy a well-deserved refreshment. All that remains is a mere 600 metres to the Bohutín village green (point no. 21), where buses from Rožmitál to Příbram stop. And here we are at our destination.

The shorter routes (from point no. 6) are 11.8 km to Bohutín, 10.6 km to Kozičín or 11 km to Orlov.

The shorter routes (from point 7) are 15.6 km to Bohutín, 14.4 km to Kozičín or 14.8 km to Orlová.

The shorter routes (from point 8) are 18.2 km to Bohutín, 17 km to Kozičín and 17.4 km to Orlová.

The route from the Pila crossroads (point no. 17) to Kozičín is 19.6 km, and to Orlov 20 km.

And one more note on transport: Even over the bank holidays, a bus will take you from Bohutín to Příbram – at 15.53, 17.35 and 18.26 from the village green in Bohutín. However, anyone wishing to use Příbram’s public transport is out of luck – between the public holidays, there are no buses running to Orlov or Kozičín (or back). They simply aren’t running. Tourists, you’ll have to make your own way.

Pavel Čámský